Developing deep ruby. Perfumed red fruit that rises up from the glass like a cloud. Sappy, concentrated cherry fruit that is still embryonic. Bags of gravelly tannins masterfully kept in check by the fruit. Very long and focused, and deserves more time in the bottle. (WS)
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2032
Robert Parker 95
The Fuligni 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine, and it shines a much-deserved spotlight on one of the most consistent estates in Montalcino. It is bright and luminous with a dark ruby shine. The bouquet reveals deeply layered tones of red cherry, wild berry, rose, earth and candied violets. Give the wine an extra twirl or two, and you get some rosemary and lavender. Soft dusty mineral and limestone also appear. I’d definitely put this bottle on a short list of the most recommended bottles from the 2017 vintage.
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is punchy and spry from the first tilt of the glass, featuring raspberry, roses, licorice and hints of flowery undergrowth. The bouquet darkens over time, taking on shades of cedar, along with blue and purple flowers. It’s silky, pliant and savory, masses of black cherry and spice filling the palate with silky textures that leave saturating minerals in their wake. This tapers off long, dry and primary, perfumed with violets and lavender, as cheek-puckering, tart red berries linger on. The 2017 may be a riper interpretation of Fuligni Brunello, but it has enough power and energy to be quite pleasurable and balanced over the medium term. All of the Riserva juice from 2017 went into the estate Brunello.
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2027