Robert Parker 93-95
Another wine that defies the more mid-weight style of the vintage, Michel’s 2014 Côte Rôtie La Mordorée sports an inky purple/blue color to go with jammy, ripe, sexy aromas and flavors of black olives, crushed violets, as well as black and blue fruits. Thick, full-bodied and thrillingly pure, it should be approachable on release yet also evolve gracefully. Looking at the 2014 whites from Michel Chapoutier, these are gorgeous wines that show the suppler, more elegant style of the vintage, yet still have thick, unctuous textures that keep you coming back to the glass. The level of concentration this estate is able to achieve, even in these more difficult vintages, is truly remarkable. The two blockbusters that readers shouldn’t miss (and that are still affordable by mere mortals) are the 2014 Hermitage Chante-Alouette and the 2014 Saint Joseph les Granits Blanc. With respect to the reds, 2013 is a serious vintage at this estate, and at the top end, they’ve produced the wines of the vintage. I suspect the top releases will shut down relatively quickly so if you’re inclined to try one young, don’t wait too long.
Saturated ruby. Expressive aromas of ripe red and dark berries, incense, vanilla, exotic spices and smoky minerals, plus a suggestion of licorice. Spicy, deeply concentrated but lithe black raspberry, cassis and cherry liqueur flavors show superb clarity and energy, and a sexy violet pastille quality emerges as the wine opens up. Delivers a suave blend of richness and delicacy, finishing with bright mineral lift, harmonious tannins and strong, floral-driven persistence.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2028