Robert Parker 94
One of the broader, more expansive and mouth-filling Hermitage in the vintage, the 2013 Ermitage les Greffieux comes from a site located lower down on the slope, just underneath the Méal and right up next to the town of Tain l’Hermitage. Its inky purple color is accompanied by terrific notes of blackberries, black raspberries, toasted spice, charcoal and roasted meats. Full-bodied, mouth-filling and with rock solid density and depth, its sweet tannin and overall elegant profile — all suggesting it will drink nicely for upwards of two decades. Looking at the 2014 whites from Michel Chapoutier, these are gorgeous wines that show the suppler, more elegant style of the vintage, yet still have thick, unctuous textures that keep you coming back to the glass. The level of concentration this estate is able to achieve, even in these more difficult vintages, is truly remarkable. The two blockbusters that readers shouldn’t miss (and that are still affordable by mere mortals) are the 2014 Hermitage Chante-Alouette and the 2014 Saint Joseph les Granits Blanc. With respect to the reds, 2013 is a serious vintage at this estate, and at the top end, they’ve produced the wines of the vintage. I suspect the top releases will shut down relatively quickly so if you’re inclined to try one young, don’t wait too long.
Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035
Deep ruby. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red and dark berries, Indian spices, candied violet and incense, lifted by a bright mineral quality. Silky, sweet and energetic on the palate, offering vibrant black raspberry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that spread out and gain weight with air. Manages to be both powerful and graceful, offering superb back-end punch and velvety tannins that shape the floral finish.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2028