The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less vibrancy and freshness in both color and flavors than the other top 2004s I tasted alongside it, suggesting that the wine is still suffering from bottle shock.
Anticipated maturity: 2013-2022
Robert Parker 90?
This was an epic vintage in Tuscany, but our samples did not live up to that promise. The 2004 Bolgheri Sassicaia opened to ripe and slightly oxidized aromas of candied fruit, prune, apricot, dried tobacco leaf and bitter chocolate. When I last tasted this wine, I noted its “retro” stylistic philosophy with a strong emphasis on richness and opulence. I wonder if that loud approach has contributed to the wine’s diminished intensity today? Or perhaps our samples were not perfect? The bottom line is that this proved a well-integrated wine, but a bit flat and downtrodden as well.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2028