Robert Parker 90
Tasted at John Armit’s Gaja tasting in London. The Costa Russi ’98 has a clear ruby core with youthful rim. This is reticent at first, gradually unfurling to reveal mulberry, tobacco, a touch of smoke. It certainly needs a little more time in the decanter. The palate is medium-bodied, sharp acidity on the entry, opening up with firm, chalky tannins, Morello cherry, some irony components and a touch of tobacco leaves. There is a surfeit of structure and symmetry within this impressive Barbaresco, but the austere, off-dry finish needs more persistency. Drink now-2017. Tasted December 2009.
Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017