These four vintages of Dom Pérignon provide a fascinating snapshot of how the house has performed in recent years. The 1998 Dom Pérignon comes across as somewhat two–dimensional and lacking the sheer cut of the 2000. There is plenty of ripeness in the fruit, but not quite the definition and verve of the finest vintages. This looks to be a relatively early-drinking Dom Pérignon. Geoffroy adds that the estate may have waited a bit too long to pick certain parcels in 1998.
Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019
Pale strawberry pink with a decidedly salmon/orange tint. Very firm nose, almost austere and certainly promising quite a bit of chew on the palate. A hint of orange peel, then some strawberry fruit and smoke. Nothing vapid or simpering about this wine! Still quite firm on the palate, a wine that seems to me to cry out for food. Absolutely no hurry to drink it. Quite burgundian. Not quite as persistent as I would have hoped.
Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021
Robert Parker 97
The 1998 Dom Pérignon has an intense white-golden color and is beautifully clear and fine on the nose, which indicates a lovely maturity and displays grey bread, almond cake and iodine flavors, along with lemon and orange aromas. This clarity and mineral freshness proceeds on the highly elegant, finesse-full and silky textured palate, and the complexly flavored, very distinguished finish is dry and mineral, revealing a stimulating salinity and tension. The 1998 seems young still, but is certainly a great pleasure to drink and will be for many years.
Anticipated maturity: 2016-2040