Robert Parker 89
Undeniably a sleeper of the vintage, this dense ruby/purple-colored, big, full-bodied, muscular 1998 may possess too much tannin and rusticity, but there is no denying its tremendous quantities of fruit, glycerin, and palate presence. If the tannin mellows and becomes better integrated, it will merit a 90-point score. If not, think of it as a substantial, corpulent, albeit rustic mouthful of concentrated wine. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.
Anticipated maturity: 2001-2009