I have long believed the level of a producer can only be truly understood by looking at the small vintages, and this next set of wines is truly surprising. To be sure, none of the wines of the early 1990s is extraordinary, but they reveal so much about what it means to be a top-level grower. The 1995 Larigi offers better balance than the 1994. Here, too, herbal elements are present in the wine, but there appears to be more fruit and volume to counter those nuances. 1995 was a challenging, hail-plagued vintage, but in that context, this is a strong effort.