1990 Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 1x150cl

Neal Martin 95+

The 1990 Haut-Brion can give the ’89 a run for its money on the right day. This is intense on the nose, with blackberry, tobacco, gravel and just a light touch of camphor. It has stunning delineation and is perhaps the most mercurial ’90 First Growth at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied and powerful, although this bottle was missing the finesse that I have discerned in previous bottles. It fans out beautifully on the finish and is surfeited with personality, yet I know full well that there are better examples out there. Tasted single-blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar. [Neal Martin, 01/12/2025]

Anticipated maturity: 2025-2055

Stephen Tanzer 93

Good medium color. Fabulous aromas of spicy cherries, minerals, tobacco and smoky oak. Saline entry, then intense, spicy fruit and excellent extract. Very firm and subtle, with outstanding clarity of flavor. Lovely ripe acids and a long, subtle aftertaste. Will no doubt live in the shadows of the larger-scaled, more dramatic ’89, but this very impressive wine should age beautifully. The Graves of the vintage in 1990! [Stephen Tanzer, 11/01/1993]

Wine Advocate 95

Served blind by Philippe Schofield at Chez Bruce, it is probably a pity that it had to follow the behemoths that are Haut-Brion and La Mission ’89. It patently had a light, leafier bouquet compared to the ’89 with a surprising level of rusticity, but finely tuned with an attractive ferrous accent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, fleshy in texture and lacking a little power. I wonder whether the low proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) is beginning to tell? Still a lovely wine though. Drink now-2025. Tasted July 2010. [Neal Martin, 01/07/2010]

Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025