Gaja's 1958 Barbaresco “Infernot” is another of Piedmont's historically significant wines. It was produced from the Secondine vineyard, which today is planted with the Cabernet Sauvignon that is the source of Gaja's Darmagi. In Piedmontese dialect infernot refers to the niches where bottles were traditionally kept in old-fashioned cellars. In the 1950s it was common for estates to bottle their wines only as they were ordered. Gaja's “Infernot” was the last of the estate's 1958 Barbaresco to be bottled. Initially somewhat closed, it improved dramatically throughout the course of the evening. Though fully mature it showed pretty, delicate layers of ethereal fruit on a medium-bodied frame of notable length. The finish seemed to last forever and we were all captivated by its seductiveness. It was still fresh and expressive when tasted the next day.
Mature mid ruby with bricky rim. A hint of oxidation at first, but underneath real concentration and depth of fine fruit and more than a hint of iron. Gorgeous acidity and waves of fine, clinging tannins. Velvety and with gorgeous depth. Not a hint of oak, here. Not over the hill by far. Nothing short of stupendous. (WS)
Anticipated maturity: 1964-2026